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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

When is an Onsight an Onsight 5-May-2005 At 12:19:48 PM LittleMac

Message

On 5/05/2005 climbingjac wrote:
>IMHO the rules are a little different for trad vs sport. A trad onsight
>requires placing, ground up. In the sport climbing world, it's more about
>the moves and pushing your limits etc. The clips are merely there to keep
>your skull off the ground. So I don't really split hairs about people
>claiming the onsight if the draws were already on the route. It would make
>it kind of hard in places like Centennial Glen in the Blueys where the
>routes are often real busy and you have to ask permission to catch a ride
>on someone else's quickdraws...

IMHO and I seem to be having a lot of opinion on this matter (along woth Chris and Dalai), the rules shouldn't be different the fact remains that it is posible for draws to be placed on lead so a true onsight should be just that.

Come on people get your votes in the more we get the clearer the picture becomes.

Oh and Dalai I had another look at the video and I noticed that some of the draws are actually double draws (2 clipped together), it appears that the bolts are placed in such a way that a short draw would create drag. Is this beta or would the climber in question have jad someone else do the draws and just trust their judgement when it comes time to make the clip??