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General Climbing Discussion

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euro ticking machine 5-May-2005 At 12:05:06 PM LittleMac

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I think the issue is this, using the rules to define a level playing field achieves the direct opposite, it creates a playing field with with steps in it. Claiming an onsight of a route that has the draws placed on it reduces the merit of somebody leading it and placing all gear on route. It also sets up a situation where elite climbers have one set of rules and less elite climbers have another.

For years people have argued about the style in which they climb, and one prime example is this, Serpentine in the Gramps, originally led ground up placing gear on lead, subsequent attempts have had gear pre placed and these ascentionists have tried to claim that their attempt was as meritorious as the original ground up ascent. Amongst the climbing fraternity these attempts are however seen as a lesser achievement (I'm talking about in general here).

I personally don't mind having the draws placed in advance on difficult routes and have done so in the past myself on routes. I do feel however rhat there needs to be some sort of definition between a ground up, gear placed lead and a non gear placed lead. As cruze states, a ground up, gear placed lead of routes such as White Zombie, Punks in the Gym, Nati Dread, Breathing Gasoline etc whilst unlikely and highly diffcult (and maybe dangerous) is possible. Onsighting is a matter of pride amongst climbers, surely it should be preserved as something special.

Indoor climbing (competition) draws are fixed in place and therfore everyone is on the same level, when there is an option for placing draws on lead a true onsight should be left for those who can do just that.

Just my opinion, as I said I have and will continue to pre equip "difficult" routes. A more apt term would be Onsight Flash.