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General Climbing Discussion

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Beta needed on Passport to insanity 13-Apr-2005 At 10:35:30 AM LittleMac

Message

On 12/04/2005 sakeynes wrote:
>Hi all,
>I'm sure this has been asked before but I couldn't find it with the search
>function. I'm having a crack at Passort to Insanity soon, and I've got
>two questions.
>1) I know the 1st pitch needs some big gear, but how big is big? I have
>a 4 camalot, do I need more? (assuming I don't want to really run it out
>since I'm shit at crack climbing)
>2) I heard there were rap stations on top now, instead of having to set
>up the tyrolean. True or false?
>Cheers
>Stu
>

If you are going to be free climbing the first pitch (do this if you can) you will need at least 2 cams bigger than a #4 camalot (3 would be better or more). At about half height the crack begins to narrow consderably but the beginning is a true off width crack. You won't get much gear in the face down low (a couple of rp's maybe) and I wouldn't trust them if you do. You will get some gear outside the crack as you get higher.

The hardest part of the climb (if you are aiding the roof) is the section of crack directly below the roof (between the belay and the roof). And the top section (grade 18) is quite loose. As I am sure you are aware the roof takes #2 friends most of the way and gradually begins to widen to about a #2.5-#3 (bear in mind these are friends not camalots).

Don't underestimate the width of the crack it is quite large so take some big gear otherwise you will be dissapointed.

One quick tip for the roof, place a nut wide of the crack at the lip to stop the rope pulling up into the crack and jamming (a real pain in the arse).

There were some and always have been some rap anchors from the top. One set was via dodgy pins and should be avoided at all costs (I won't even explain how to find them) the others were set up using tape and have been there a while now so I don't know what condition they are in, to find these from memeory you need to to the back of the cliff scramble down a small gully a short way (slightly right) (looking at the main part of the cliff) and you'll find them (slings and carabiners) (multiple abseils). I did the tyrolene and it's not that hard to setup and is well worth the effort.

Hope this is of some help, if you want some more info, PM me and I'll sort you out as best I can.

Cheers

LittleMac

P.S Definitely take a headtorch.

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This is a last minute thought, my advice is similar to others who have posted on this topic in the past. This is a very serious adventure route which has foiled many experienced parties in the past. Do not underestimate the difficulty involved in this route and if you do decide to go do it get some really good beta. Talk to others who have done it and avoid some of the common pitfalls. Remember this isn''t Araps and the ambos and rescue crews aren't 25 mins away (more like several hours (after you manage to contact them)). Having said this it is a fantastic route please remember to keep the amount of rubbish on the route to a minimum.
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