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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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First Ascents 11-Feb-2005 At 4:00:52 PM oweng

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I can add a personal experience on this one.

There was a route at the Paradiso at Mt Brown (formaly a trad area but now established as a mainly sport area), where id top roped a route a couple of times one weekend. I went back with the intent of leading it on trad the next weekend (I would have top roped it to get the route wired and fully sussed the gear first). It seems loose lips had sunk ships during the interveening week, as the route now sported 5 or 6 bolts and a project tag.

After some initial annoyance I was releived because a) I didnt have to risk dying on a route that certainly wasnt worth it and b) at least the route was well bolted and would fit in well with the style of the climbing area.

After thinking about this, my conclusion was that the only time I could justify doing a route on natural gear after someone had bolted it, would be if the gear was 'adequate' on the route. I dont think you would want to climb a route in a run-out 'gritstone' trad style, and then chop the bolts claiming that the route can be claimed on gear.