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General Climbing Discussion

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Northwest and Southwest Guidebook updates 1-Feb-2005 At 11:29:35 AM Rob

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This is always an interesting subject Robin and one that has been in the forefront of my minds after just returning from a fantastic week away in Tassy and climbing at 4 different areas Hillwood, Sth Sister, Sisters Beach and Blackwood Rocks all out of Gerry Narkowicz and Rob Mcmahons Climb North Tassy guidebook.
We picked these particular crags because of the amount of 2 and 3 star climbs at the crags at our grades and the write up in the guidebook, as you do!
Without putting to fine a point on it Blackwood rocks is the worst crag I have ever been to “a vertical beach” and we only did the 3 star routes!
After wasting a day at Blackwood rocks and another at Sth Sister, this bought us to talking about a star rating for crags.
As discussed previously in the forum a crag may have three star climbs if they are “local” but it should point this out in the guidebook! for the non locals!
For example 1 star for a local crags such as Mt Beckworth 2 stars for Camels and dog rocks and 3 for the likes of Bundaleer and Summerday valley in the Gramps, and the stars for the climbs can reflect the climb at the crag for instance a 1 star cliff 3 star climb is a good local climb probably on a par to a 3 star crag 1 star climb.
Back to Tassy, and Matto Grosso at Hillwood on the other hand is a 3 star crag Gerry And the crew have done a great job as the majority of the climbs are bolted very well and fantastic to climb but I do believe you have to be very careful when you give a climb 3 stars no matter where it is!
At the very least a 3 star climb should be on good rock and be sustained at the grade, otherwise it can put in doubt other climbs or crags that the first assentionist climbs and or writes up.
And I would hope as in the past most climbs will over time gain or loose stars depending on feedback to the guidebook writers. I suppose there is a inheritance of putting up climbs and then writing the guidebook!?
But this may be something that guidebook writers should keep in mind? Anyway food for thought
Sisters beach was a 3 star crag as well!