Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Mind games, visualisation & being in the 'zone'. 22-Nov-2004 At 10:34:02 AM Tel

Message

On 19/11/2004 A5iswhereitsat wrote:
>
>Have you ever had your confidence / focus shattered right at the start
>of the day/climb?
>... If so did you manage to 'regroup' ? / how ? (ie this question is different
>to the one above in that it assumes you are not already committed enroute).

I think it was my fourth time climbing outdoors, I felt really excited and keen. I did my first abseil that day and was pretty comfortable with that.
My first climb however, top roping a 15, my head went. I dogged my way up this route and pretty much at the top, the nervous tension which had been building, thouroughly set in. I think the term is gripped. My belayer ( who shall remain nameless) fortunately is a top bloke, and he talked me through it. I was that close that under normal circumstances I could have untied his laces. It is hard to describe exactly how uncomfortable the feeling is, but my hands were locked on these holds, and my breathing was shallow fast and erratic and I felt that any second I would fall to my death. When I did top out there was no exileration, more just totally embarrassed, worthless ect. I tried one other climb that day, maybe a 13, and had to get off half way up, I just couldn't do it.
How did I regroup? I didn't and haven't.
I thought long and hard in the following days, and that was pretty much the end of my rope climbing. My opinion is that in moments such as the above, dangerous situations can/ could arise and I could be resposible for putting someone else in a dangerous situation which I feel is selfish ignorant and stupid. Maybe I am just not cut out for hanging on a rope.
I can say I have done one other roped climb since then, 2nded a 17, which I did clean and in fine style { I think ;-) }...
But since then the rope and harness just gather dust.

Now I boulder, and love it. Each time out I feel more and more confident in my ability and try various techniques to aid improvement. When bouldering I use previsualisation all the time. I have found this helps. I have also noticed that controlled breathing also helps on cruxy moves. Then if I come off I laugh instead of rant and this also keeps everything relaxed. These tips I read in eric horsts book, training for climbing.