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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Top Rope First Ascents 25-May-2003 At 11:28:08 PM Joe
Message
I think that the way Dave Jones did Daedelus was via a variant. I don't think he freed the aid move but climbed around it. He is the first ascentionist because the described climb via the free moves had not been climbed aid or otherwise. Whatever. The thing is what's the point in recording first ascents of routes with a point of aid if they can be lead free, unless you're specifically wanting to put up an aid route. Otherwise on any hard unfinished project, you can just pull on bolts and get up and then write it up as a first ascent. For example the 'Somalia' project or any number of other projects could already be written up in the guide books, but led with an aid point or two. Chris Sharma didn't pull on a bolt on Realization and then call it a first ascent 5.14d A0.

Joe

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