the numbers are very scary. If you take a 1 meter factor 2 fall, you put nearly 20 KN force on the anchor (enough to break a bolt) and the climber faces 15.3 G-forces.
these numbers seem very big.
here is a scenario: you are standing on a ledge, attatched to a bolt by a sling. the bolt is slightly below you. if you fall off the ledge, according to the calculation, the bolt should break.(also, slings have less stretch than rope). this is a time when i would fell safest but it seems i would be better off 5 meters above a small RP. i know i would feel much more scared in the second situation. |