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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

To carrot or not to carrot 31-Oct-2004 At 2:33:35 PM Susan

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Hi everyone. I've only just joined Chockstone, but I feel as if I have a few comments on bolting to add.

I've bolted - mainly bashed-in carrots and glued-in carrots, generally without fixed hangers. The way that I see it, I use what is appropriate. I'm on a lead on a multi-pitch grade 18 slab and the last bit of pro is 15 metres below me? I have no problems wacking in a carrot. What use is glue in this situation? None.

On the other hand, I'm at a popular spot where the rock is more vertical, lacks suitable sites for removable gear, there are often toorists gaping, and I will be going back soon, well, glue something decent in - but unobtrusive.

Who has ever pulled a carrot out? Who has even seen one pull out? I never have. I took a 8 m fall recently (I slipped on a wet patch - gee I hate that...) on a carrot in diorite and a 10 m fall on a carrot in sandstone (my only injury being caused by my belayer kicked me in the head as I went past her). Now I'm sure carrots do fall out - but then so do friends, nuts, and everything thing else.

The way I see it, if a single gear failure occurs - with one or two exceptions like a falling rock cutting the rope - and you go splat, then you weren't climbing safely in the first place.