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Trad climb? (2) 20-May-2003 At 11:01:56 PM Donut King

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yo Eddddddie

i heres what youse saying bout 'dem old school climbs...wicked!

So you see a bit of (in your opinion) shite "fixed" gear and you think it looks outa place on the route...if in doubt i, dont fix it.

I feels thatif there is good placements near by and they are easy to get to then pull that stuck mumma out baby! But most of the guide books have some explinatioshhhuns of fixed gear of some sort. uSe this as a guide perhps?

if you find fixed gear on hard (subjective!) trad routes then just leave it there if it looks ok.
That obvios peice jammned by my mate on Death Row at Araps just wasnt ment to be there and was removed by some one a week later....no confusion as to wether is was fixed or not.

Use your best judgement given the circumstances...i dont think that there can be any one perfect rule to fit all situations (not unless you count what i just said i guess.....)

Dont try and play they game of route police and try to execute judgement what should or should not be there if you dont really have to...we all know how to deal with the obvious stuff (booty, crap gear etc) but with the rest...well dont rip it out without expecting some sort of bullshit climbing ethics debate about what should and what should does not constiute fixed protection, faxing the first ascentionist to get their innermost thoughts, conducting a poll of internataionl climbers..blah blah..youre always gonna piss someone off

keep it real my man