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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Trad climb? (2) 20-May-2003 At 12:08:52 PM eddym
Message
I am moving this discusion here from the 'Accident' forum. I stuffed up in my haste last night to go out and put it there incorrectly.

I was wondering what the deal is with fixed gear I am finding on routes in Araps...

I climbed Trojan the other day and found that this 'trad' route had 4 pieces of fixed gear in it (one bolt and three other pieces that all looked good). I only needed to place two pieces on lead.

I found this a little suprising. Inappropriate bolts get chopped. What about inappropriate fixed gear? I don't have a good enough grasp of the history of this particular route and the reasons the gear is there to decide if I should remove it. I'd rather leave it to the knowledgeable Natimuk Faries.

The last fixed piece (a small hex) was equiped with a shackle. I couldn't work out why at first but then figured perhaps it was there to allow people to clean the route themselves. Don't know - just guessing. It would be a nasty pendulum if it pulled though.

Does anyone else have any experience with this route or similar ones? I thought this might make for an interesting discusion for those of you trying to avoid working...

There are 27 replies to this topic.

 

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