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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Training grip strength 8-Sep-2023 At 8:41:30 PM One Day Hero

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On 8-Sep-2023 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>As a result of my recent experience I’ve reevaluated some of my ideology
>and come to the conclusion that yes technique is hugely important and will
>get you up many things, but when it absolutely comes down to it then there
>is no substitute for strength.
>
I think Tony Yaniro had the best version of that concept; "Without sufficient power there will be nothing to endure"

But the flip side is that if power is the only thing you have, you'll waste it all long before you arrive at the part of the climb where it might be useful.

In my experience, most young dudes get pretty strong within the first two years of their climbing and are then held back by poor technique and lack of power endurance for as long as it takes to realise more power isn't going to solve everything. Some people never learn. Obviously there are outliers for whom this isn't true.