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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Pro placements per metre 25-May-2021 At 10:20:11 PM PeterW
While I largely agree with M9, here's an alternative view to consider.

Many (many) years ago when I was climbing a lot better (and when soloing was less common than now) I used to solo climbs at Werribee Gorge up to around 17 or so as a "warm up". One day I was climbing with someone new to crack climbing so I lead him up Conscientious Pontius, a climb I usually soloed. I scared myself silly hanging around trying to get gear in! (No cams back then!)

My point is that sometimes (and I stress "sometimes") it's better to skip a placement than to guarantee you'll need it! (Although as M9 says, not so much near the ground.)

On the other hand, if you're following a bomber crack that you can throw gear in with barely a pause, why not lace it?

Lastly, in my experience seconds complain about leaders putting in too much gear when the leader spends "too long" placing it! :-)

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