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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Glue in carrots 10-Jun-2019 At 9:40:58 PM One Day Hero
On 10-Jun-2019 Stugang wrote:
>1: any issues with glue in carrots with hangers (using 316 stainless bolt
>and hanger)?

Yes. The hangers will all be spinners since the bolts don't clamp them onto the rock. Also you get nice little gaps between hanger and bolt for salty water to collect and evaporate leaving very salty salt to corrode things (this is a problem for all bolt/hanger combinations).

>2: how does response to 1 above change if it is a tropical marine (not
>right on beach though) environment?

I think the theory goes that as you get higher above the ocean things get rapidly less bad for bolts.

>3: does response to 2 change if it is granite and not a high traffic area?
>These would not be sports routes and would be for the occasional piece
>on a mainly trad route or rap anchors.

Traffic volume is irrelevant, you don't want bolts failing (especially rap anchors). I think rock porosity might be a factor, in which case granite is probably better than most sedimentary rock.

Rings are a hassle because the weld can be more susceptible to corrosion, and you'll hate life trying to notch them into granite anyway. U's would be easier to place, but again the cold bending can make them a bit suss for corrosion. Glued machine bolts are probably the best bet, because they aren't stressed or welded, go in a single hole, and can easily be torqued out if replacement is needed. You could start an import business for pfh hangers into asia and quit your dead end day job. No idea what you do for rap anchors, maybe big radius U bolts?

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