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General Climbing Discussion

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Grampians Access 2019 26-Apr-2019 At 8:25:51 PM Maxo

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Thanks rudi for a constructive post.

Chalk. It’ll be pretty hard to convince climbers not to use chalk altogether. But coloured chalk is pretty widely available these days on the internet. Yes it’s a d*ckaround to have two or three chalkbags to pack, but a relatively minor inconvenience overall. An option could be for the climbing community to self-impose (or otherwise observe) a ban on white chalk at specific crags or on specific routes that are particularly susceptible to being marred by chalk.

Any doubters: try and imagine what it must be like for any non-climbers who hike in and see the Gallery (or Millenium, or Muline). They are genuinely beautiful, and unique places that have been caked in chalk that will not wash off, because climbers have felt entitled to do what they like with steep rock.

As for bolts, it’s pretty astonishing that it’s taken until 2019 for climbers to have their arses kicked over sh*t bolting practices in the Grampians. It’s been a National Park since forever. How could anyone think it’s anything other than criminal (and I f*cking mean that literally) to drill bolts into the cliff without permission?

That’s not going to change, so it’s pretty clear that some kind of regulation has to be on the table if it’s ever going to be permitted. Is there a model that works at Arapiles that could be replicated in the Gramps?