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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Making Tassie Wilderness a Sport Climbing Venue. 21-Mar-2019 At 6:36:17 PM Goshen
I agree the description is more about one person frothing over the potential, rather than the reality of Frenchman's itself (I haven't been there). The first paragraph could at least be replaced with "there are lots of potential for new routes, including some major natural lines on surrounding cliffs".

< SNIP >
Known for its fantastic 400m high wall, Frenchmans Cap presents the longest vertical cliff in Australia. With 1,000+ unclimbed boulder problems, 1,000+ unclimbed sport routes and 1,000+ unclimbed trad routes it also presents another goldmine for those with an interest in new routing.

The rock is bullet hard quartzite, reminiscent of Arapiles in parts, but which - due to low traffic and the frost-shattering nature of the area - often has brittle sections or individual holds. Occasionally you will also find sections of "cardboard rock" - hard on the outside, but hollow, light and with questionable strength. Under no circumstances should you ever (a) view a route from directly under those climbing it, or (b) climb without a helmet.

Most lines to date follow obvious features and have enough natural gear to keep things sane, but holds abound over the entire cap and it's possible that sport routes - or more likely mixed routes - might spring up between the major lines over time. It's also possible they end up being the best routes of their kind in the country. If carrying hardware 24km in isn't your thing, never fear, there's trad climbing here for a lifetime.

There exist numerous entire cliffs in the region without a single route up them - some 200m+ in length and the king lines have by no means gone - witness La Grande Pump Cave's 50m rising traverse, or Sharland Peak's 150m continuous arete as just a couple of examples.
< /SNIP >

PS - As an advocate of mixed climbing, I'm not against the occasional piece of fixed gear; but maybe we should insist it should all be done by hand. That'll put the brakes on things a bit.

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