General Climbing Discussion

Topic	Date	User
Thou Must Not Crimp!	13-Mar-2019 At 7:16:45 PM	The good Dr
Message
Superstu, I cannot crimp due to the morphology of my fingers (no bendy backwards, thumb too short to close over the fingers). I open hand everything, even the crappy holds. The best way to get used to 'no crimping' is hangboarding. Only use open hand holds and you will develop the strength needed and understand how it feels to open hand a small hold. It will be dispiriting at first, but you will quickly develop good open hand strength. Follow a programme - there are many - would recommend the Anderson Brothers stuff (Rock Prodigy blah blah blah). One thing that also helps a lot is to use the slopers on good hangboards which are uncrimpable.

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