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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Warning! Mikl still dodgy after all these years. 28-Nov-2018 At 3:45:39 PM mikllaw
Message
To be fair, they are dull brushed stainless, with a certain rustic air about their ,manufacture. They could easily be mistaken for Aluminium.
If they were alloy they'd be weakish, about half to a third of the strength of a stainless item.
They are mostly on slabs where forces are likely to be low (< 4kN). They are definitely not 25 kN UIAA units, but lack of funds made me think they were ok. The limiting dimension was the thickness of the web on the outside of the biner hole, I think I tried to discard any that were less than 6mm. This one was 4.3 mm and broke at 16 kN.
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If they were Al, they could be as low as 5 kN, so maybe breakable in a bad fall.
One person said they were concerned about cutting a rope over the top, which is a feasible failure mode.
If anyone wants to replace them, feel free.

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