Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
|Lead belay technique
||16-Oct-2018 At 5:42:20 PM
|On 16-Oct-2018 Hermes wrote:
>Hey Chockstone crew,
>I'm a bit perplexed by something that's being taught in a number of Melbourne
>gyms. They are quite adamant that when a lead belayer takes in slack, they
>should always reach under the lead rope with their off hand, to avoid their
>arm coming between the lead rope and their body.
>The rationale given is that the arm can be injured if the leader falls
>when the arm is between the rope and the body. Now this scenario seems
>a bit far fetched to me. When you catch a big fall, the first thing that
>happens is that your hips get pulled forward and up by the harness, while
>inertia holds your shoulders and torso back.
>It actually seems a bit counter intuitive, as when the leader drops an
>armload of slack you've either got to blindly fumble your way under it
>with your hand, or take your eyes of the struggling leader.
>I'm pretty sure it's not something that was ever covered on the guide
>courses I've done. Is this legitimately a way climbers have been injured,
>or just a random rule the gyms have created?
Can belayer chew gum and belay straight at the same time too?
Is gym instructor 38 years old and spamming you?
Random rule bro.
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