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General Climbing Discussion

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Fixed gear guidelines in the Grampians 1-Jun-2018 At 8:14:36 AM Dave_S

Message

On 31-May-2018 One Day Hero wrote:
>Unrusted full sleeve expansion bolts are
>generally very quick and easy to replace.

My experience removing them has involved some difficulty, but then that's only been those with a hex nut head, not a bolt head. The process went like this:
1) Remove the nut and hanger.
2) Grind down the thread close to flush with the rock.
3) Push the thread back into sleeve.
4) Insert a star plug (the cheap, household, plastic masonry anchors) into the sleeve.
5) Drill a screw into the star plug, leaving at least 1cm poking out.
6) With pliers, pull on the screw to extract the sleeve.
7) Fish the remains of the thread/cone out of the hole.

Admittedly if it's a hex head dynabolt rather than a thread and nut one, you skip steps 2-3, meaning a grinder isn't required. And if there's enough of the sleeve protruding from the rock to allow you to grip it with pliers then it's even easier.

On 31-May-2018 Stugang wrote:
>ODH - You say truebolts can be removed....can you give details on how.

It appears possible with specialised tools like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ec8NLhtIXmw