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Topic Date User

Fixed gear guidelines in the Grampians 28-May-2018 At 12:59:07 PM Access T CliffCare

Message

On 28-May-2018 jacksonclimbs wrote:
(snip)
>
>Not to say that it is not an issue - certainly in the US the access fund
>are responding with campaigns to educate new climbers on LNT principles
>etc. The above point may also mask the growth of bouldering, which would
>not be evident in harness sales.
>
>I'd be interested to see some data breaking down the chosen disciplines
>of new climbers. My personal observation is that many of the new climbers
>in the Gramps are boulderers - How do you manage that? The impact of bouldering
>can be rapid, and is the most accessible of the disciplines. You can chop
>bolts, but you can't chop boulders unless you decide to chip holds - which
>would be a very extreme measure. I guess that raises the point that PV
>concerns may not necessarily be dealt with in a bolting policy alone. Perhaps
>as a group we need to also adopt a practice of closing off sectors for
>routine block periods to allow for re-vegetation. - I know they do that
>at Hueco Tanks as a compromise with other stakeholders.

Hi Jackson,
Actually left a response for you on the Facebook group. With regards to your comments above see here a snippet of a comment I left for someone on another FB post noting Bouldering

********
- There are a number of avenues being addressed with regards to the bigger picture and it's not just about fixed protection in the Grampians. As I have noted in a number of my Access reports last year, this year will see difficult conversations on the table that the climbing community need to address. It all takes time and Access here does not have the same support, money and resources that somewhere like the States does and even that is an involved process with many differing opinions. Education work is being undertaken (it always is as it is neverending) Bouldering issues are being discussed and an education campaign is part of this.
********

This has also been noted and discussed in various Access reports - not sure if you read them. This particular thread on Chockstone is about one particular topic. Those other avenues are also in the process of being looked at. It's a huge job and much easier for feedback to break things down separately. I reference Access Fund regularly as well as other similar organizations across the world. The bigger picture is not just about Fixed Protection. This particular post is. Hopefully some information I am putting together and posting soon via the CliffCare website and social media will give some clarification to that.