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Fixed gear guidelines in the Grampians 27-May-2018 At 8:10:05 PM jacksonclimbs

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On 27-May-2018 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 27-May-2018 jacksonclimbs wrote:
>
>>If that is the case, why don't we have hundreds of easy sport routes
>from
>>that insatiable, hungry beast? What has stopped it from happening already?
>
>There's no potential for good easy sport routes in the gramps because
>most of the good easy climbing was done as trad over the last 50 years.
>Good taste and lack of interest in beginner routes has kept the first couple
>of generations of bolters from wrecking things. Taste and ethical standards
>are gone now, and career bumblies are buying drills. Most other climbing
>areas in the country are now getting terrible sport routes squeezed in
>everywhere. Why do you think the Grampians will be any different?

Because most people have adhered to the existing guidelines, have they not?

Did the other parts of the country with squeeze job routes start out with a mix of sport/mixed/trad in a similar ethic that the Grampians currently has?

>>Why should we cater to you, and not those climbers?
>
>You should because I'm trying to preserve some semblance of wilderness,
>and a climbing culture which is distinguishable from the global lowest
>common denominator. You won't, because deadshits think that their right
>to convenience trumps everything else.

If that's your intent, then you need to influence more people than you chop bolts, and in that aim, you might catch more flies with honey.

>Why do you want bolts next to perfectly good gear placements? If a route
>is safe as trad or mixed, why would you personally want it to be sport
>bolted?

I don't want that everywhere - just noting that I think it would be good to have a handful of crags with routes in the aforementioned grade range. I believe that's possible, I don't believe the slippery slope argument.