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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Bolt Removal 26-May-2018 At 11:04:43 AM Wendy
On 24-May-2018 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 24-May-2018 Wendy wrote:
>>It's a 13m 13 FFS. What is so terrible about making a 13 that probably
>>hadn't had a 2nd ascent until I unearthed it into a better lead for grade
>>13 climbers? Like when Simey added the bolt to Bygone. Bolts aren't just
>>for hard climbers you know. But because I can actually communicate and
>>Noddy is also a reasonable person who can communicate, we discussed it
>>and it was important enough to him that I let it be. I had actually discussed
>>it with a bunch of other climbers who were all for adding a bolt as well.
>>But we went with Noddy's preference.
>>Discussion. It's the kind of important point I'm getting to here. Bolters
>>need to do it. Choppers need to do it. Being gung ho wankers about chopping
>>doesn't actually help. (snip)
>You have touched on an interesting point regarding consultation Wendy.
>Do you think the outcome would have been different if First Ascentionist/s
>were no longer around to defend their style on their creation, as at least
>one was in this case?
>From what you have written above it seems to me that (I'll use the
>term bracket creep, so as not to bring up slippery slope arguments again!),
>you and the 'bunch of other climbers' you discussed, about it with,
>were all advocating the addition of a bolt to that climb, thereby constituting
>bracket creep over time (ignored for 30 years, sic), to justify a retro
>under the various banners of safety, modernisation, make it popular, make
>it consistent for a grade, whatever!
>If bracket creep is taken to it's nth extension, then I fear
>the future of climbing will be lost as it won't remember its historical

There are plenty of routes to remember historical roots by. This is about making an obscure but pleasant route accessible to the masses who are loving the moderate routes to death. I don't advocate putting bolts in things that actually get ascents, even if I will never be leading them again with the gear available in them.

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