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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Bolt Removal 26-May-2018 At 11:00:33 AM Wendy
On 24-May-2018 Stugang wrote:
>On 24-May-2018 Wendy wrote:
>>It's a 13m 13 FFS
>That is insane logic. Are you seriously saying retro Bolting an obscure
>13m grade 13 so the masses can come and do it is a valid argument at a
>crag like araps.
>FFS if you are a “grade 13” climber (whatever that means) at araps and
>you have climbed everything actually worth doing at the grade that isn’t
>“goey”. Then quite frankly you should be able to progress to something
>that is a bit “goey”.
>If you can’t then who the fk are you to expect that a crag like araps
>should be developed to cater for your glacial progression. And people putting
>up climbs shouldn’t be catering to the 0% of the population who have done
>all the good safe ones that can’t progress. Heaven forbid I reckon they’d
>be able to do a good safe 14!
>Quite frankly I think araps is at a stage of development where all new
>bolts should be banned below 25 (just a guess maybe higher maybe lower).
>If you can’t do it just leave it and stop giving shit arguments about “traditionally
>araps has had crap ethics so I am justified in being just as if not mor

Have you noticed how many people only climb low teens? That maybe those routes and areas with those grades are getting loved to death? The idea is to provide more options to spread the load around. Why is it ok to retro taste sensation because it's 25 but not an obscure 13? WTF have grades got to do with it at all? If it has no trad gear, it's a candidate for a bolt. If routes are getting ascents in their current form or the first ascentionist did it in good style and wants to preserve it that way, sure leave it sketchy. I don't think adding a bolt to an obscure route to make it something that people will climb is a travesty.

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