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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Fixed gear guidelines in the Grampians 16-May-2018 At 8:34:51 AM kieranl

Message

The point of the thread isn't to solve the issue. The point is to start a conversation with the people and trolls who still look at this site about how we can manage crag development in the Grampians.

These internet forums are imperfect places to hold good conversations. Thread drift, trolling, personal attacks, anonymous users are all part of lightly moderated forums. There's nothing unique about chockstone in this regard. So we might make loud noises here, but it doesn't mean we are necessarily as important as we like to think.

Most of the important stuff is in the first few posts.

At this stage it's about the Grampians. If a good process comes out of it then it should transfer to other places.

Apart from Stapylton where there is a complex mix of trad, sport, and bouldering I think we can generally look at areas rather than individual crags or faces.

So, The Fortress Massif could be looked at as a whole.

It's in a remote and Natural Area. There are nearby indigenous sites. Historically it's almost exclusively trad. I heard that there is one sport route but I don't know where it is. There is a major mixed climb with about 10 bolts on the Crimson Tower. There may be some belay bolts below the roof on Passport placed subsequent to the FA.

My take on this would be : No further fixed gear, either bolts, pitons or slings in the Fortress Massif. Remove the sport climb. Leave any belay bolts below Passport roof as removing them will likely result in retreat slings being added. Consult further regarding whether to remove mixed route on Crimson Tower; I would opt for remove.