Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
New bolt on Blimp - Bundaleer 11-May-2018 At 8:05:40 AM Goshen
Message
On 10-May-2018 Wendy wrote:
>Oh god, the rosea debate again. Really, it has never been a bolt free crag.
>There have been bolts and anchors on it as long as I have been climbing.
>Above Debutante DS. The routes immediately right of it. At base of Scarface.
>If there aren't any to replace the old rap trees on RIP corner and Knick
>Kanck, there should be. Coronary Country and a few other things down there.
>Can people please stop deluding themselves? That is not even touching the
>pitons. Or tat. Or fixed wires. Or slings on trees. Fixed gear has existed
>since time immemorial at Rosea. Despite that, it has not been grid bolted.
>Can we please not have another slippery slope argument about it?
>
>Back on topic, my general assessment of if something has enough gear is,
>would I lead it? Being the world's biggest wuss who bursts into tears above
>gear on grade 15 slabs, it's a fairly reliable measure. I have lead Blimp
>a lot. I have never clipped either the old piton or the old bolt. There
>is plenty of gear. I am all for replacing old fixed gear with modern gear
>when it is necessary, but this one is not necessary.
>
>Using the same standard on Kingdom Come, I have led it a lot, and there
>are good small wires around the piton as well. Simey would be proud of
>me, I carry my microwires up an off width. The start, on the other hand,
>has no gear, is desperate, and i never do it without placing large wire
>with a stick. If I was to feel a need to retro KC, it'd be at the start.
>Rip the piton all you like, it doesn't need replacing. Mention microwires
>in the description if you want.


Thanks Wendy... I wasn't sure about Kingdome Come; but agree strongly on all 3 points.

There are 88 replies to this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints