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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
New bolt on Blimp - Bundaleer 11-May-2018 At 8:05:40 AM Goshen
On 10-May-2018 Wendy wrote:
>Oh god, the rosea debate again. Really, it has never been a bolt free crag.
>There have been bolts and anchors on it as long as I have been climbing.
>Above Debutante DS. The routes immediately right of it. At base of Scarface.
>If there aren't any to replace the old rap trees on RIP corner and Knick
>Kanck, there should be. Coronary Country and a few other things down there.
>Can people please stop deluding themselves? That is not even touching the
>pitons. Or tat. Or fixed wires. Or slings on trees. Fixed gear has existed
>since time immemorial at Rosea. Despite that, it has not been grid bolted.
>Can we please not have another slippery slope argument about it?
>Back on topic, my general assessment of if something has enough gear is,
>would I lead it? Being the world's biggest wuss who bursts into tears above
>gear on grade 15 slabs, it's a fairly reliable measure. I have lead Blimp
>a lot. I have never clipped either the old piton or the old bolt. There
>is plenty of gear. I am all for replacing old fixed gear with modern gear
>when it is necessary, but this one is not necessary.
>Using the same standard on Kingdom Come, I have led it a lot, and there
>are good small wires around the piton as well. Simey would be proud of
>me, I carry my microwires up an off width. The start, on the other hand,
>has no gear, is desperate, and i never do it without placing large wire
>with a stick. If I was to feel a need to retro KC, it'd be at the start.
>Rip the piton all you like, it doesn't need replacing. Mention microwires
>in the description if you want.

Thanks Wendy... I wasn't sure about Kingdome Come; but agree strongly on all 3 points.

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