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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
New bolt on Blimp - Bundaleer 10-May-2018 At 4:36:44 PM Wendy
Message
On 10-May-2018 nmonteith wrote:
>On 10-May-2018 Wendy wrote:
>>Oh god, the rosea debate again. Really, it has never been a bolt free
>crag.
>>There have been bolts and anchors on it as long as I have been climbing.
>>Above Debutante DS. The routes immediately right of it. At base of Scarface.
>
>All on pretty worthless mega cruxy climbs that no one does. Those bolts
>always made me a little annoyed the very first time i saw them - yes they
>are some 'ard man routes from the 80s but did they really need to be the
>one to spoil the rest of the whole crag being potentially bolt free?

But have they really spoiled the experience of doing heretic or debutante or hard times or the ascension or any of the classic trad routes? Well, maybe the route right of debutante ds if you really don't want to see token sportish routes. They exist. They have existed for a long time. Suddenly coming along 30 odd years later and saying we'll make a bolt free crag seems kinda silly. Iv had endless arguements about slippery slopes before, but strangely enough, Rosea has not turned into dreamtime wall (which might actually have been a bolt free crag when joe rediscovered it) in the 30 maybe 40 years since the first bolts went in it.

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