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General Climbing Discussion

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New bolt on Blimp - Bundaleer 7-May-2018 At 10:29:06 AM PThomson

Message

Every day that passes since a piton was placed decreases the integrity of the piton, and the placement itself. So to climb it to the conditions of the FA, you would need to replace the piton every day (and yes, that's an argumentum ad absurdum, deliberately enacted). If the piton isn't necessary, then remove it... but don't pretend your honouring the FA in doing so, on the basis that the FA thought it necessary in the first place.

So, if the "piton" is an aesthetic element, then you replace it with a nice new Titanium Piton, whereby every day and every fall decreases the integrity of the placement, and the rock, and sooner or later its a problem again but with more damage to the route.

The solution: glue in a titanium piton and don't worry in either regard.

But don't kid yourselves that it's not a bolt. (in fact, I'd argue that it's a more destructive bolt).

- Paul