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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

New bolt on Blimp - Bundaleer 7-May-2018 At 8:47:24 AM armstp

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It seems like a very strange thing to do to a popular and iconic route without at least some discussion. Whoever did it must surely have expected some controversy. Many bolting policies accept the replacement over time of pitons with bolts but some routes by their historic nature are a bit different. Although I am not sure what the answer is long term to dealing with old pegs on otherwise thinly protected routes. More people will probably jump on Blimp with the bolt there, but fewer people climbing at the grade would start up it without the peg. A discussion on a public forum might have reached some consensus. And some sort of consensus does need to be arrived at as I am sure that there are more classic routes like this around that will need that decision making at some point [isn’t there still an old peg protecting the crux of Last Rites?]. Then again public forums like Chockstone only attract a particular kind of person, and whoever put in the bolt probably figures that the majority of climbers will probably be happy with what they have done, so why get into a long public slanging match with the usual suspects.