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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

New bolt on Blimp - Bundaleer 7-May-2018 At 6:01:42 AM Nmonteith

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My 2c. I don't agree with doing this. The piton was certainly something people clipped - but it was always a bit crappy looking so backing it up with nearby trad gear was what anyone (sensible) would do. Now people will just run it out to get to the bolt - then run it out above the bolt because they know its a bomber reliable piece. With the piton you made sure you placed every but of trad you could! I think its a very bold move to place a bolt on a mega classic route that had zero bolts to begin with and that gets hundreds of ascents a year in its original form. Its a major piece of Victorian climbing history, a top trad route and an route people aspire and work up to doing. Im certainly an advocate of retro bolting when a classic piece of real estate gets zero repeats over decades (some of Tempests scary 80s routes left of Dagons Temple are now semi popular thanks to new bolts). But Blimp isnt like that. Also, the rock on Blimp is soft and isn't really good enough for expansions long term.