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General Climbing Discussion

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Questions regarding routes, bolt and grades. 30-Mar-2018 At 6:11:57 AM kieranl

Message

On 29-Mar-2018 The Rock Robster wrote:
>My point about chopping it was more for the sort of folks that think it's
>okay to just retro old bolts because they feel like it without asking the
>first ascentionist/locals etc. Chris' comment about doing it and not telling
>anybody rang alarm bells about people doing that stuff without taking into
>account the FA.
>I hardly think I was blowing it out of proportion, since that's the generally
>accepted ethic. Perhaps I'm just old fashioned though.

I've never heard that it's generally accepted that FA needs to be consulted about replacing old bolts. I don't know what may have given you the idea that this is "generally accepted". I doubt that's happened in much of the bolt.replacement at Arapiles over the years. Where's the logic in this one? If a bolt is badly corroded or poorly placed or simply a drive-in carrot, why should the FA have any say in the placement being fixed?

What is generally accepted is that the FA should be consulted if possible before retroing a climb - where a bolt is placed where there was not one previously,