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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Questions regarding routes, bolt and grades. 19-Mar-2018 At 8:44:37 AM bigchris

Message

On 19-Mar-2018 BA wrote:
>On 19-Mar-2018 kieranl wrote:
>>If this is the Pinch then the bolts were placed in 1970 on the FA. It
>would
>>help if you'd mentioned the climb name.
>
>>Grading : If this is the Pinch then it was originally graded 12 with
>2
>>bolts for aid by BA and Bangla. IT was freed by Rod Young at grade 16
>in
>>1975. They were all pretty solid on Buffalo wide cracks so I'd be a bit
>>wary about upgrading it.
>
>It must be a great climb! I'd been following this discussion and until
>you mentioned I'd been on the FA I had no idea I was involved. Back in
>the day, when an aid bolt was placed by us it was a 1/4" diameter, so it
>might not be as bad as you think. BUT, after 48 years I wouldn't trust
>them. Since they were aid bolts maybe just replace one of them with something
>bomber to use as pro.

Yeah cool. I'll be up there in 2 weeks so I might just replace the high one. That looks like its buggered and the bottom one doesn't really do anything to keep you off the deck. But in any case, I really enjoyed it as a climb!