Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Questions regarding routes, bolt and grades. 19-Mar-2018 At 6:51:15 AM bigchris

Message

On 19-Mar-2018 kieranl wrote:
>If this is the Pinch then the bolts were placed in 1970 on the FA. It would
>help if you'd mentioned the climb name.

In this case yes, but I was asking as a general question for routes all over Buffalo :)

>
>Replacing existing rubbish bolts on an unpopular route with new FH is
>fine, as James said, just do it. Ideally try to extract the originals and
>reuse the holes. Not always possible, especially with thin mild steel carrots
>which often break in the hole.

Yep cool. I understand.

>
>Yes, use FH rather than glue-in carrots. Glue-in carrots are really only
>acceptable when there are issues of visual intrusion.

Yep. I'll try and use the original the holes.

>
>Grading : If this is the Pinch then it was originally graded 12 with 2
>bolts for aid by BA and Bangla. IT was freed by Rod Young at grade 16 in
>1975. They were all pretty solid on Buffalo wide cracks so I'd be a bit
>wary about upgrading it.

I'll leave it as a personal grade. Beware though, as a climb at 16, it's totally sandbagged :D

>
>Tat : Yes, please remove.

I'll cut the old tat next time I'm up there.

>
>And thanks for the work, though I can promise you that I'll never get
>on this climb.

You might love it!