As M9 predicts ....
The problem with most of the buffalo offwidths (indeed, buffalo in general) is no one climbs them so they are filthy. Even after Singersmith cleaned Country Road, it was still rather unpleasantly dirt and moss when I played on it a few years ago. I've never done Monarch because I'm too scared of the unprotectable grade 17 squeeze chimney in the top pitch. Angels is awesome. Cacaphonic Crack I got told off by parks for building an anchor off the lookout so I never actually got to climb it. Jaws was some off the most desperate, cheese gratering 17 I have ever done in my life. Hand vice is also rather fatter than hands.
On the less suffering side, you can have a great day out in stapylton amphitheatre with Germinal, that thing in the kingdergarten whose name I can't remember, clicke crack and lay back and think of england. Bundaleer provides the joys of Basilisk DF, that 18-9 thing just left of it, the top of Dagon's Temple, and of course the amazing Ogive.
Araps has a few joyful offerings such as Electra, Wizard of Ice, Kama Sutra, Cerberus, In Lieu, 5 fingered Mary and I've never braved the roof of Marbuck.
Frog is probably the place to go for pure offwidthing, where Badfinger, Venom, Côck Crack and Juggernaut await. And almost any route there with provide a surprise finish of fat crack. I've rounded up 3 6s and 4 5s for this winter so I can make some brave attempts on them.
Piddo has a few, my fav of them being Janicepts, although it's been a very long time since I've done Spartan which did look rather fun when I was up there last year.
Best? Sorry everyone, most of the suggestions so far don't make it onto my "best" list ... Maybe Angels, Kama Sutra, Electra, 5 fingered Mary, Basilisk DF, Ogive, Janicepts and that one at the Kindergarten, I really wish I could remember it's bloody name. It's starts as blue camalot and only gets wider and by the time you are at the end of the roof you are closer to the ground than you are to your belayer. I'd love to do Telstar as well, it does look awsome. |