if anyone actually wants tips on runouts ???
when sport climbing, assuming it's not a groundfall, and i am confident at the grade, i skip the first bolt, and try to skip every other bolt, just to train my brain to read the rock, and not read the bolts. if you are 25m off the ground, and 6 metres to the anchor, skip the last bolt and climb like you're free soloing.
so when you do face a runout for real, you have a least a little experience outside your comfort zone. |