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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
The Irish Solution to The Ben Lomond Problem 10-Oct-2017 At 4:02:58 AM Karl Bromelow
Message
I meant this one, should have been more precise, sorry:

>1 modern stainless bolt with fixed hanger on the 4th pitch which replaced
>a rusted carrot

This one felt incongruous to me when I was surprised to see it on my second time up it. Coming from the UK I had learned to accept the quirkiness of carrot bolts on supposedly trad climbs, or in trad areas. The difficulty of placing the hanger on yourself or in my case usually fiddling a wire on because I had no plates seemed to be the way the Australian game was played. It was less than perfect but didn't feel so convenient as to be called "sport climbing". That was not so far down that "slippery slope" that I mused too long on it. However when I first saw the fixed hanger (the only other time I have done it) I was surprised and thought it was a significantly different prospect and seemed very odd on such an iconic line. Of course I clipped it and certainly wasn't outraged. It felt easier though. The nature of the climb had changed a little for me. It's possibly a great example of the "slope" not necessarily having a steep gradient. The bottom of the slippery slope doesn't have to outrage you either. You might, in fact, be in favour of it and consciously contribute, knowing it is somebody else's "slippery slope" but for you not negative. It can be observed without great passion but matter of factly or with passive acceptance. I am just arguing that slippery slopes do exist and are perceived differently depending on your own agenda or lack of one.

Cheers, Karl

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