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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
The Irish Solution to The Ben Lomond Problem 9-Oct-2017 At 10:51:52 AM Karl Bromelow
Message
>I also look forward to the day that Mt Arapiles joins the list of bolt
>free cliffs in Australia...
>Heh, heh, heh.

It is clear that different people have different perspectives regarding what constitutes an active slippery slope. Anybody who has ever placed a bolt on rock protectable otherwise (even if placed for lower off purposes) will have a different view of the bolt and chain slippery slope from those who have not or are opposed to doing so. Their view may differ from cliff to cliff but they will feel differently about the gradient of that slope and the point at which it bottoms out or becomes uncomfortably significant. For me Arapiles' slippery slope hit rock bottom when a bolt was placed on Watchtower Crack. I don't know if it is still there because I haven't been on it in years but something is most definitely, lost for me, when fixed hardware proliferates. That is undeniable. That is my perspective. Others clearly hold a different view but, having watched the arguments continue, internationally, for nearly 30 years, and also witnessed the slow (low angled slope) progression of acceptance of bolted anchors (for various reasons) and a sport mentality, from my perspective the slope is demonstrably genuine. I don't however proclaim to be the arbiter of all that is righteous in rock climbing. My own opinion would be don't bolt Ben Lomond.

And for what it's worth, comparing this with the same sex marriage argument is simply ridiculous and a little bit provocative, and about that I am most definitely right, aren't I?

Cheers, Karl

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