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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
The Irish Solution to The Ben Lomond Problem 21-Sep-2017 At 4:49:33 PM Wendy
On 21-Sep-2017 uwhp510 wrote:

>Concern about the slippery slope of bolt proliferation (since that's what
>we're actually talking about here) has been borne out as being well founded
>in almost every single case. I'm mystified that you would think that "once
>we add these couple of anchors, that'll be it and no-one will ever want
>to add any more ever". Has that ever happened at any crag anywhere?

I can't think of anywhere that was bolt free that suddenly became a mess of bolt after the addition of a set of anchors. The Pt perp stuff came decades after the anchors in and bolts already existed. The odd old qlder moans about replacing the stupid tree ancors at Frog with bolts, but the bloody ugly bolts of elven king and others even older have existed for yonks. Bolts existed at araps 40 years before anchors became more common. I've a vague recollection about people wanting to keep rosea bolt free when it was suggested some tree achors that had burnt be replaced by bolts. Except that it had bolted routes dating back to the 80s .... Maybe you can point me in the direction of a bolting controversy at an actually bolt free crag that actually started from a single rap anchor put in with the intention of it being just a single rap anchor?

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