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The Irish Solution to The Ben Lomond Problem 16-Sep-2017 At 3:26:43 PM johny

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On 13-Sep-2017 Wendy wrote:
>I must be a masochist ... but seriously, are you guys on the same drugs
>as the anti-same sex marriage crew? a perfectly rational bolted anchor
>or 2 at a crag does not lead to to instant mad bolting in the same way
>that same sex marriage doesn't lead to people marrying the harbour bridge,
>although to be perfectly honest, people can marry their toaster for all
>I care.
>
>The tatt all over Ben Lomond is crap. the chain solution is still a ridiculous
>compromise. Just because it is theoretically removable doesn't mean that
>it's not still way more visual than a bolted anchor, it can't be placed
>in the most appropriate place for the job and in effect, it is going to
>just stay there in the same way a bolted anchor would.
>
>Suggesting rapping in on a 70m rope on rope stretch is asking for someone
>to have an accident. Not to mention that people are approaching from the
>bottom because that's what the guidebook says. Hence that's what they will
>continue to do and continue to leave bits of tat because the top of the
>cliff is weetbix. For all the yadda yadda about the experience, I don't
>climb at Ben Lomond for the weetbix experience. I do it for the amazing
>crack beneath it. It's like Indian Creek. There is absolutely no loss
>for me rapping off after a pitch and a half when the rock turns to shit.
>
>I could probably annoy a lot of people with explaining why I don't take
>a lot of English crags and ethics as an example. I don't think the rusty
>star pickets that serve as anchors at Pembroke are any improvement on a
>bolted anchor. They are ugly and crappy. But really, "tradition" has a
>lot of fixed gear and aiding. Have a read of Vanessa's article in VL about
>what "traditional" ascents left all over Ball's Pyramid. And if you are
>so keen on the adventure, doesn't having the escape route of a fixed line
>ruin that? Hell, I would prussic up the last pitch rather than climb that
>weetbix. Is it not visually invasive to have a fixed line running down
>the cliff as well?
>
>Ben Lomond is hardly a last bastion of bolt free rock. Most of the rock
>around the country is in fact bolt free. You can go and have the full experience
>of adventure climbing on all sorts of little or untrafficed rock. Being
>a national park also has no relevance to provision of sensible anchors.
>National parks around the country are full of bolts. Climbing always has
>an impact on the environment and no crag is pristine, especially once information
>about it is in the public domain. You say no one is complaining about
>not having anchors. Well, they are by their actions. That's why the cliff
>is covered in tatt.
>
>I am all for a couple of sensibly located bolt anchors. Slippery slopes
>are logical fallacies. You can use them to argue against anything. In actual
>fact, we set boundaries that prevent slides down slippery slopes all the
>time. Same sex marriage does not lead to child marriage because we can
>acknowledge that child marriage is a different and unacceptable issue.
>These arguments are just fear mongering

Some good points Wendy. I agree with Gerry. I also agree with Rowan. Fairhead access is different but the ethic is similar enough. Gay marriage and bolting? wtf?

Wendy, I think you are a bit harsh calling the chain rap station ridiculous. It's an effort at compromise. I also think you are understating the traditional climbing ethic of Ben Lomond. I agree that Gerry's argument about National Parks is weak. He is using anything he thinks will keep the place bolt free. Picking against the weakest links in his argument does not make your case. He is not out to win an points in a debate. He wants the spirit of the place respected.

Ben Lomond is a special place that needs to be kept bolt free. I like this idea. It suits the Tasmanian ethic in general.

Gerrys Irish solution seems to have been implemented so its working. Hey no nutz. Yeah when Gerry gives up the ghost there will be a bunch more stubborn angle-grinding safety-last dicks to pick up the torch.