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General Climbing Discussion

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The Irish Solution to The Ben Lomond Problem 11-Sep-2017 At 8:25:18 PM rowan

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I've climbed in both spots. I think they are slightly different in that the walk to the top of fair head is a flat paddock that is really not far and you start at the top and end at the top once done climbing.

I know you say you walk to the top at the ben. But I personally would rather not walk a 100m static to the top to then walk it back down. Having said that, I would if I had to. I climb with a 6mm static trailing and just rap with that normally.

I like the idea of a bolt free crag but wouldn't mind a bolted abseil option. The thing is when there are no bolts you end up with bits of tat hanging everywhere. Or people walk down that gully and trash it, like at the flutes.

I think over all, a bolted abseil is a better environmental option. But it sounds like it is not just about that for you. It may be more about the actual interaction of the whole experience.

I for one don't think an abseil station would ruin the experience. What if they were swaged bits of wire rope instead of bolts so you could still say it is bolt free?