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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
History of Tasmanian Climbing Book Project 17-Jun-2017 At 9:09:42 AM Duang Daunk
On 23/09/2016 Tastrad wrote:
>>Ajfclark wrote: I'm interested how someone establishing a route gives them
>>a better idea of route quality. I would've thought climbing many routes
>>in many different places would give you a better idea of route quality.
>Its more about whose opinion I respect, the relationship I have with them
>and their reputation and pioneering efforts , than the actual issue of
>route quality. If you came up to me and said half my routes at Hillwood
>are shit, I would say go f..k yourself; I enjoyed establishing them.
>But if I got to know you a bit and shared a few beers around a campfire,
>and learnt about your climbing experiences, and realized you've got a few
>runs on the board in terms of cliff development, and that you'd travelled
>widely, and that you can put your case in a reasonable manner, then I might
>be more inclined to listen to your opinion.
>People with a few new routes to their name do have more credibility in
>my book, because they understand the effort that goes into a route. The
>people that annoy me are the pricks that come along and whinge and say
>`oh its a bit dirty, or the bolts in the wrong place, or the moves don't
>flow, or the access is shit', and you know they are locals who've made
>hardly any effort to develop the sport, or visitors like One Day Donkey
>Boy who just spray criticism. Their opinion lacks credibility in my eyes.
>Case in point; I was raving about my effort in putting up the Whiskey
>Jim Crack (25), a splitter crack through a 9m roof and gave it 3 stars.
>HB onsighted it, had no qualms with the grade, but said it was a bit dirty
>and more like one star. I respect his opinion because of his climbing resume,
>his reputation and because I've climbed with him many times and he's a
>mate of mine.
>So the pioneers of Tassie climbing I mentioned earlier, I know most of
>them personally or by reputation; and it is their opinion who I would
>respect more than others, because of my relationship with them, or their
>pioneering efforts which speak for themselves.

So bro; is this new coffee table project when done, going to have a glossy mirror-like cover on it and maybe have a sub-title something like Towards 1000 New Routes?

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