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General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 37
El Cap, Freerider free solo by Alex Honnold
Karl Bromelow
9:12:40 AM


3:24:32 PM
9:23:41 AM
Cap'n Tom's coverage is up now..
5:36:42 PM
The interview is classic:

What are you going to do this afternoon?

Iím probably going to hang board.

Youíre going to go do a hang board workout?

I mean, in a bit, yeah. I mean I want to eat some lunch, I want to get in the shade and then Iím probably going to hang board in a bit. I am perfectly warmed up, I just did four hoursí light exercise, you know?
2:04:27 PM
All over the internet now ..

8:19:56 PM
It's 5.12d - that's 27, 35 pitches (not that that makes any difference if you've not got a rope!), and he soloed it !!

2:43:23 AM
He actually did the Huber Variation making it 5.13a instead of the Teflon Corner which is 5.12d.
8:27:17 AM
I suspect that these soloing feats of Mr Honnold will never be repeated; I just hope that he 'makes old bones'

btw I get scared soloing above 2 metres from the ground (on a grade 5)

8:45:31 AM
On 7/06/2017 jdb wrote:
>I suspect that these soloing feats of Mr Honnold will never be repeated; (snip)

Tommy Caldwell/Kevin Jorgeson first free ascent of Dawn Wall... and Tommy Caldwell likened Alex Honnolds ascent of Freerider to the moon landing; ie The defining moment in free climbing ...

~> In the future the gallery viewers await the first onsight free solo of -

9:11:03 AM
A really nice description of the climbing involved

Makes the idea of soloing it that much scarier...
7:15:48 PM
I read somewhere (can't remember where though) that Adam Ondra felt that soloing a 9a sport route would be an easier feat than soloing Free Rider.

Honnold really made the big time though when he won the mid-season award for most courageous act as awarded by Richo on the 'The Kick' (the Saturday night pre-grame footy show on Channel 7) tonight. Richo got his name wrong (I think he called him Alex Hannel or something) but he did award it to Honnold over Joel Selwood (the captain of Geelong) who copped a pretty nasty blow to the head last week. You don't get bigger kudos than that.

8:53:26 PM
Simey - JOEL Selwood
He may not play for the Pies but he does have a name.....
9:34:25 PM
On 10/06/2017 MisterGribble wrote:
>Simey - JOEL Selwood
>He may not play for the Pies but he does have a name.....

I have corrected my original post. I can't believe I got that wrong. Getting Honnold's name wrong is par for the course, but to get the name wrong of an AFL demigod is sacrilege.

10:11:25 PM
I'm sure Honnold's never heard of either of them, but I bet you slipped him a season ticket to the Rams when he was at Goatfest a couple of years ago.

He may be able to solo a 35 pitch 28 before breakfast, but he'd certainly know about it if Buddy Franklin ran thru him.....

.... you've heard of Buddy Franklin Simey ?????
1:41:02 PM
Another well written piece:

1:32:30 AM
I do think the attempt to suggest Honnold has a freakish amygdala as a reason for his apparent fearlessness is belittling his achievement. I suspect he has just mastered suppression of his adrenals and mind- fear to such a degree through endless practice. Many emergency professions practitioners also can remain calm and function in situations where going to pieces or the slightest tremor would be maladaptive, or soldiers, or other sports people like shooters etc

8:03:49 AM
Completely agree. The neuroscience article couldn't really say whether the lack of activity was due to disfunction or just very good control developed over years of practice or a combination of the two. Are they looking at a cause or an effect? Doesn't really matter, he's worked on that control for years and deserves the credit for it.
Apart from that he obviously has a pretty solid capacity for logical thought and that would also be constantly reminding him that one slip was one too many. So he has worked on his physical control to such a degree that he can climb a hugely difficult climb like that without one slip or rest on a rope. Even ignoring the fear factor, that alone is an amazing athletic feat.

11:19:42 AM
You're full of beans this morning, Grinder.

Don't forget what Jerry Moffatt said: You can't fall off if you don't let go

9:48:09 PM
I think it has to be the combination of the two. He was naturally disposed to it as a child but has developed it immensely from there.
Also the headpointing he did, surprised Simey hasn't dissed him for it, helps the rational mind dispel the fears. If he could do the sketchy slab 5 times hands free without a problem then obviously it's nothing to worry about on the eventual send ...
10:00:52 PM
The world of sport science full of attempts to establish exactly what genetic difference there is between certain athletes and mere mortals. It's just when journalists mangle it in their interpretation.

It could well be that Mr H has physically changed his brain through years and years of focus. Or he has such great control over it that when running tests he simply scores different average for certain stimuli.
Whether or not being born with an underactive amygdala is a prerequisite for solo climbers is a stretch - imagine trying to find a control group for that... And the Amygdalae do actually have other functions - primarily emotion and decision making... Alex seems to display normal emotions and good decision making in his every day life (sleeping in a van, peeing in a bottle...)

On the other hand, I don't think it's belittling his achievement any more than saying LeBron James is good a basketball because he is 6'8 with a 7 foot wingspan. I imagine it's just scientific curiosity (and average journalism)
Apparently every mountaineer who successfully climb past 8000m without supplementary oxygen has an ACE gene.

Understanding how Honnold does what he does can have positive impacts (as mentioned above, many people need to control their emotional response to danger). PTSD sufferers could be helped if they are able to gain some control over unwanted reactions.

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There are 37 messages in this topic.


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