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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Moving to Victoria - need some tips 11-Feb-2017 At 6:34:35 AM jacksonclimbs
Message
I just landed a job in Melbourne. Queenslander that's been living in the Texas in the US for the past 2 years or so. As I plan through the move, would appreciate some tips as I have to make a few decisions in the coming weeks.

I'm predominantly a sport climber, will boulder if it's good, and in the process of learning trad. After spending heaps of time on thecrag sussing out the Melbourne area, it looks like I'll probably end up spending the most time at the Grampians. Here in TX we have to drive 3-4 hours just to climb 30 foot limestone, which we do every other weekend, so not afraid to make the haul out there pretty regularly. I've read the approaches can be long, especially by US 'sport crag' standards, and that a 4x4 can come in handy for getting around the park. I have to decide what car to buy in the next couple of weeks so just wondering to what degree of 4x4 do you need to actually drive these tracks in the Grampians? Can you get away with a Rav4 or another city 4wd or maybe a Subaru, or would you need to go full hog, raise something up, change out the suspension etc. etc. Are there many other climbing destinations within driving distance of Melbourne that you need 4x4 for?

Secondly, trad gear. Things are cheaper here and we'll be throwing a few things in a shipping container so might as well get what I need. Currently I've got a set of C4's, C3's, X4's and a set of stoppers. After a bit of reading, it seems that I'll need a couple of sets of RPs to climb up in the Arapiles. Anything other trad gear I should get while I have the chance?

Last question. I'll have a hangboard at home, and will probably build a 30 degree wall in my garage, so realistically just need somewhere that has a bunch of auto-belays to jump on for endurance training, then a campus board would be a bonus, but I only use that a handful of times a year anyway, so really just need auto-belay aka traxxion (not sure what they call it in Oz). Which gym is best for that?





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