Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

THE AUSTRALIAN RE, RETRO-BOLTING OPEN FORUM 19-Aug-2004 At 5:18:00 PM jmgh

Message

On 18/08/2004 Damietta wrote:
>Yep the bolting and grading of the thing was bolloxed from the start. Bolts
>primary purpose is safety - why then bolt the thing so it remains dangerous.
>If a first ascentionist is gonna bolt something really poorly, and undergrade
>it to buggery, then they are an absolute tossa in my book -

tossa -maybe.First ascentionist - defiantly.
Mikl did the route in the style of the day using the protection where he placed and presumably needed it. If the climb is to be 'improved' then the old 'rules' say that you do without one or more of the bolts and/or with fewer yo-yo's [ pts of aid?] The climb stands as a testament to the prowess of a true climbing legend and now, with the legends consent, none of us can measure ourselves against this twenty year old standard. I think replacing old for new is good.I'll even, with reservations, accept replacing crap with solid gear.but changing the route as completely as in this case i have to worry. sure mikls 'permission' is a solid argument, but isn't that a starting point not a conclusion? p.s I'd put chris shepard at the top of the 'tossa' list.his bolts are baaad man. and while i'm on a roll, the BEST thing about australian climbing for me when i first arrived here was the carrot bolt.sudddenly clipping the bolt had all the drama of placing gear. with the same nagging feeling that maybe it wasn't any good. am i the only advocate of this uniquely australian tradition?