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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
New anchors at Araps - What do you reckon? 10-Jan-2017 At 1:19:14 PM Eduardo Slabofvic
On 10/01/2017 Wendy wrote:
>>Sorry Ed, I'm going to horrify you a bit more. There's actually about
>10 between Alis and Firedance. Although I think only maybe 3 of them
>> are overkill.

If there's 10, then I think 8 are over kill.

>>Plus, there are way more anchors, lower offs and rap stations than you
>>mention in your earlier post. Way way way more.
>>E.g. (not the definitive list) 2 on top of Castle Crag.
>That's about 5 now. I'd probably only really object to 1 of them.

There's 5!? Then I object to 4 of them.

> 2 on top of Coming
>>on chris. Why do we need two in these locations?
>This one is pretty special. I think Gordy might be responsible. Can I
>be a fly on the
>wall when you go tell him what you think of it?

I already have, plus I chopped one of his other anchors that I didn't like (it wasn't bolted though. I gave it back to him).

>>>Some areas are so heavily used that the single rap station becomes a
>>>point and risk (eg Preludes Wall)
>>>> and that rap station
>>>>shouldn't place the fall line over another route that someone might
>>>In practice very difficult to achieve. If you look around there's not
>>>that many raps at Arapiles that meet this brief. One of the ironies
>>>that putting a rap station above a piece of rock that people rarely
>>>can change that situation (eg Skylark)
>>No so difficult to achieve. Routes aren't that close together. Step
>>left 2m. The rap off of the top of Preludes wall could have been moved
>>2m left and avoided being over the top of that route and still been easy
>>to access.
>I"m not sure which came first, the route or the rap. I'm also not sure
>why it wasn't put over where the old chain was.


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