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The Eyrie, Mt Boyce retrobolted! Badly... 1-Jan-2017 At 2:39:46 PM jrc

Message

On 1-Jan-2017 E. Wells wrote:
>I would like to rebolt 'Another Mans Juliet' and 'Sweet Irish'. Just to
>replace bashies. My intention was to use stainless 100mm machine bolts
>with a little extra rough and notch glued in with hilti epoxy , however
>online (as opposed to local) consensus does not favour placing bolt plates
>any longer , so how should I replace these carrots? I have removed carrots
>that were withered to 1 inch inside the hole on other old (80s , not so
>old) climbs before. Not particularily interested in technical advice. Moreso
>how should I replace bashies if I decide that I have the time , energy
>and money.

Sweet Irish was never bolted in the first place. Granted it was a bit of a leap of faith to lead it but people did it without thinking themselves particularly 'macho' (see above)

Then 1 bolt appeared at the crux just next to the horizontal pocket which used to be the no 5 cammed hex runner and where you can put a cam ( the purple one I think). The other dozen or so bolts appeared some time later. Maybe you could pick which of these really need to be there and update them.

I'd suggest Paul T Is correct in his suggestion of wanting to make the eyrie a guided route. I'd reckon people would leap at the chance of an adventure abseil in to Boyce followed by a classic arête / cave route with excellent photo opportunity from interested parties. I don't know whythis means lots more bolts would be needed as the key risk is to the guide leader or have their standards dropped too ?

Here is a true guide story - I remember leading the first pitch of gently mine in the 1973 school holidays and sitting on the (boltless)belay ledge and trying to summon up the courage to go up the poorly protected second pitch (it has 2 bolts these days which makes it a lot nicer but maybe not how Lee and Warwick intended it). Anyway a guided party came up behind us and I had a chat with the leader, John who amazed me by smoking on belay. I should have known! After he brought his client, Giles, up he offered to lead us all up the second pitch which needless to say we appreciated. He made it look easy. Interestingly he was probably the most prolific bolter at the time but he seriously picked where he would do it. Vale JME

Sorry for rambling on it's wet here at mv. Wellsy if you're itchy to retrobolt something please go and update the 2 x 2" bolts in mass murder at mt York - I'll even pay for the hardware (that's for 2 bolts btw)