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General Climbing Discussion

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Uber classic oz offwidths 16-Dec-2016 At 11:43:43 AM ajfclark

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All that discussion about bits of mast wedged in cracks reminded me of this from http://www.chockstone.org/interviews/smentz.htm discussing Passport to Insanity:

Q: I've been told a rumour that you tried to convince some students that a tin of baked beans would make good slung pro while teaching on a Climbing Instructors Association (CIA) course recently?

I don’t recall telling that to students, but they might have asked me about an incident years ago when I led the first pitch (the grade 20 off-width) on Passport to Insanity using a modified baked bean tin to protect myself. We had forgotten our big cams, and I was so keen to do the route that I made up my own piece of gear using two empty tins with a rock in the middle. I carried it up in an extra chalkbag, wedged it in the crack and slung it. Fortunately I didn’t fall on it.