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Pioneers of Tassie's Best Climbs 23-Sep-2016 At 8:53:50 AM Tastrad

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On 20/09/2016 simey wrote:
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>This video is a crock of horse shit. He spouts on about the wonderfulness
>of new routing like it is some sort of higher spiritual realm. And then
>we watch footage of him climbing something where he has obviously top-roped
>the crap out of it beforehand (given the amount of chalk it is covered
>in).>>I fail to see the difference between him doing that, or anyone working
>any route near their limit. >I would argue that the intensity of experience of going ground-up on any >established route beats the shit out of establishing a new route which you have rap-inspected/rap-bolted/top-roped first.
>>But I completely dismiss the idea that new routers do all this work for
>the greater good of the climbing community. New routers love doing new
>routes and that is their primary motivation.>Like Wendy pointed out, track work and re-bolting is often a thankless task that is often far more beneficial to the climbing community.>And the idea that only people who establish new routes can vouch for the quality of others new routes is absurd. I would say that they are often
>the worst people to ask if you are wanting an un-biased opinion.

Damo does Donkeys and now Simey is into horses..that's a new line of route name inspiration..Simey's saddle Club? Hung Like Simey? What McCleod was doing was new and hard..grade 31 on trad, so of course he's going to work it, have it ticked up. But nevertheless he is establishing a new route, and that's what is satisfying to him..like you said, new routers love putting up new climbs, its their primary motivation..and memorable..way more memorable for him than repeating any grade 31 which he is more than capable of. Lyle Closs once wrote in Screamer magazine 1984, that climb names are a memorial to men's dreams..they dreamed and envisioned the route and then climbed it..just like you did for the Totem Pole. I certainly don't put up new climbs for the greater good of the climbing community, but if I bolt something, I'll do it safely and properly in case people want to repeat it. Its nice if they do, but I don't give a shit if it doesn't get repeated. As for new routers vouching for the quality of new routes, I don't think you got my original point. When One Day Donkey Boy heaped shit on routes at Hillwood and Blackwood rocks, it got me wondering whether I should listen or respect his opinion. It made me wonder whose opinion I respect on these matters, and I concluded it was the people who by virtue of a lot of pioneering on Tasmanian cliffs and who've put in some hard yards establishing the routes, who are most qualified and whose opinion has a lot of weight when it comes to judging the quality of my climbs. So I'm more likely to listen to Garry Philips, Nick Hankock, Neale Smith or Simon Parsons, than One Day Donkey Boy who I don't know from a bar of soap, or some un-named locals who mostly repeat routes, and have no idea of the effort that goes into putting up a climb. Thankyou to the people who built tracks and replaced bolts on the Tote..the climb itself sucks donkey dicks
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