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Pioneers of Tassie's Best Climbs 15-Sep-2016 At 2:50:17 PM ajfclark

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On 15/09/2016 Tastrad wrote:
>Tristosterone says many of my climbs were a waste of time..maybe for you
>mate to repeat them, but definitely not for me..I have exhiliarated with
>every new climb. Thanks for the compliment re the guide. One Day Donkey
>Boy reckons I slipped up with Blackwood Rocks...its the best sandstone
>crag in Tassie..but that's not saying much as it is a bit sandy..buts lots
>of people have appreciated well bolted moderate sport routes, and developing
>it was two years worth of great fun. Over-rated star quality..take 2 stars
>off my climbs? A couple of issues here..basically I climb in a crew of
>4 people who are new routing every single time we climb..so yes, its a
>bit of a bubble and we judge the quality of our own climbs and we write
>them up..so when they haven't had a repeat or only a couple of ascents
>by our mates, the stars could be out of wack..plus one does tend to be
>enthusiastic when the latest project goes down as a lot of time and effort
>has been invested. Nevertheless, our small crew has climbed all over the
>world and people like Ingvar Lidman know what a quality climb is. Some
>of the people I mentioned said take some stars off Gerry's routes..good..bring
>me back to earth a bit..on the other hand, it was funny to see Garry and
>Nick stripping stars off one another's climbs. Which is why the whole star
>system is subjective bullshit, and some very good climbs gather cobwebs
>and grass because people gravitate to the 3 star routes. I deliberately
>wrote the first edition of Climb Tasmania in 2005 with no star ratings,
>because as a selected best climbs guide, I thought it was obvious that
>every climb in there would be a winner..but no..people want stars. There
>are no women on the list because no women have contributed classic new
>routes to Tasmania, except maybe Heather Hankock.. But I would listen to
>someone like Liz Oh if she commented on a climb, because she has runs on
>the board in terms of impressive leads of climbs of all types from hard
>sport, multi-pitch, scary trad,and she travels widely to most crags and
>lets her climbing do the talking. I listen to Jed Parkes, though he hasn't
>done many new routes I know of..but nevertheless, he is out every weekend
>travelling to cliffs all over the state and is not afraid to shirk the
>issue and gets on climbs of all types and grades. So you don't have to
>be a men of the ben, but nevertheless, for me its the route developers
>and the people who have heavily invested in a place,that have the most
>credence when it comes to judging a climb's quality..so if a fly by night
>like One Day Donkey Boy, or a bottom feeder like tristosterone comes through
>and says lots of climbs and whole crags are shit..thats their opinion..sorry
>to waste your time..but I won't listen to your opinion and you can both
>join in a threesome with the nearest donkey.

Sure doesn't want to wear that enter key out, does he? ;-)