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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

New Worthless Donkey Dick Climbs 12-Sep-2016 At 11:19:21 AM Tastrad

Message

On 12/09/2016 dalai wrote:
>Nice display of maturity TasTrad and turning the other cheek!
>
>ODH was messaged by the mods in relation to that post earlier and this
>could easily have slipped from everyone's mind, but you have decided to
>continue with it...

The point is, that One Day Donkey Boy has rubbished and dismissed many of my climbs. I think by now I know what a decent climb is and what is worth bolting and what isn't.

As a pioneer of many crags, I am very conscious of the precedent and environmental impact that placing the first bolts has, or trundling rocks and cleaning vegetation, and many times I have drawn the line and said its not worth it. There are half a dozen buttresses at Hillwood left unclimbed because they actually would suck donkey dicks..even though I rapped them and was half tempted in the name of totality of development..but you have to draw the line somewhere.

Now there is a keen new router who moved here recently, who has started filling in the gaps between climbs at Hillwood..bolts 1m either side of existing routes and lots of link-ups..some say this is devaluing the existing climbs. Some faces are so grid bolted now, you cant tell where the original climbs go. But I set the precedent years ago, so good luck to him.

I'm having a great time doing new routes every time I climb..it does not impinge on One Day Donkey Boy so I don't know why he is so infuriated by some of the development here. These donkey dick climbs named after him illustrate the point tongue in cheek..he might say they are worthless pox..and yet I think they are terrific.all of them 1 or 2 stars. of decent height, good rock, well bolted and worth repeating..and the local crew confirm the good quality of these climbs